During his tenure at the house, Yves Saint Laurent (1957-1960) elongated its signature shape into a new design he called the Trapeze line, while Marc Bohan (1960-1989) softened volumes, favoring a refined silhouette worn by Princess Grace of Monaco and Sophia Loren. Reworked and updated in almost all of the 22 couture collections Monsieur Dior designed until his death, the Bar was firmly embedded in the house DNA, its legacy secured for future appraisal. Paired with a voluminous, pleated black Corolle skirt, it was a dramatic statement at a time when fabric consumption was still restricted. Taking its name from the bar at the Plaza Athénée that was frequented by the founder himself, the original Bar jacket was constructed from four yards of silk shantung in a soft ivory shade and padded at the hipline for a more rounded, feminine shape. With its signature hourglass line, the Bar jacket is perhaps Dior’s best-known signature cut, triggering a fashion revolution when it was presented as part of Monsieur Dior’s 1947 haute couture debut. The following season, the 50s provided further inspiration with the integration of a diagonal sash, wrapped like a cummerbund on tailored jackets – 3D draping that Jones credited to “looking at the cut of a 1955 dress in the Dior archive.” The show notes were headed Dior, not Dior Homme, and he absorbed and creatively responded to the savoir faire of in-house skills– there were suits, the jackets wrapped and buttoned a little off-center, with a cut named Oblique in reference to a 1955 Dior couture collection. “I’d call it romantic, rather than feminine,” he said.
Jones has set about putting his own imprint on the business by collaborating with an impressive roster of artists and musicians and continuing to place tailoring at its core – not going so far as to scare off the existing customer (those diehard purveyors of the gray suit), but by expertly and incrementally transferring flourishes and techniques from the women’s couture side of the house.ĭuring his SS19 debut, Jones declared it time for couture values to be imported into menswear.
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